My alarm goes off and I'm tired. So I lay there, finally convincing myself to get up and see how the waves are.
I put on my bikini which is still sandy and wet from the day before, wishing I had rinsed it properly and hung it outside to dry. Well, at least I'm awake now...sort of.
On the balcony, two of the other guests at 'La casa' are not so impressed by the look of the ocean. And for good reason - it is incredibly flat today.
Maybe in half an hour, they say and all I can think is that I could have slept for 30 more minutes. I guess I'll just meditate for 15 minutes. Yes, apparently I have become THAT person.
Afterwards I trot down to get the energy I'm still lacking from a fresh cup of coffee.
Now this is the best part: to go surfing, all I have to do is grab my board and walk 50 meters to the ocean. Zero effort required.
At first, I paddle a whole lot and catch absolutely nothing. There's over 20 people in the water and few waves, so the competition is fierce.
But then something shifts. All of a sudden, I'm in just the right position. Nobody else is paddling for this wave, I feel it's force propelling me forward as it comes underneath me and I stand up. Furthermore, for the first time ever, I glide down the yet unbroken face. I can't stop smiling.
From is point on, the waves just keep coming. They're small and mellow so instead of nosediving half of the time, I ride every single wave I get. The only thing driving me out of the water is my ever-growing hunger.
All right. Food. Rest. Get back out there.